Re: [AMC-List] IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!!

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Welcome back! Hope you're not tasked to go back six months from now like some of the Army folks have been. A neighbors son is getting out. Just over three years in the Army now, and he likes it, but 24 of those 36+ months have been in Iraq. He went throught training, which took about six months, was in the unit for six months, then sent to Iraq for a year. Got back for about six months, then sent BACK to Iraq for a year. Has a year left, and they want him to reenlist and go to Afghanistan for a year after six months back again. I don't blame him -- six months home/one year away on a regular basis is just to much, especially for a green troop. I know all units aren't getting hit so hard, hope yours is one of those and you're home for at least a year! Could be because he's single too. 

Anyway -- you can play with Ford and Chrysler front wheel drive front rotors that slip on the hub. Four wheel drives do also, and the Jeep Cherokee rotor is a good candidate, but as I recall they are about 2" deep and the center might bnot be big enough for the front hub to fit in. You can get Wilwood rotors with steel hats in various depths, that might be the way you have to go. I'm not sure if the MII rotor mount is adaptable to the Rambler, but I'm sure you'll find out and let us know! 

Even if it doesn't fit, try to take pics of the unmodified mount and what you try, then post them. Might give someone else an idea for you to try, and if nothing else will show the rest of us what doesn't work. We need to share "this won't work" info as much as "this does work"! Without pics though some of use will still try it just to see WHY it doesn't work. I've been told a lot of things won't work but when I go to put them together find a way -- sometimes easy. To some people "won't work" just means it won't bolt up with no mods, but I find if I move a bolt hole or make a simple spacer/adapter...  I'll be just as happy to print a photo documented "doesn't work" article in AMC as well. Sounds a little strange I know, but even that is good info, and by printing it there's a better chance it will survive. That's the main reason I print the little magazine -- with 200 copies out there several are likely to survive as documentation for a lot longer than I do -- and/or my memo!
 ry (or 
any of the rest of us who try to collect info and "know-it-all" about AMC!).  

Your valve guides are likely fine, it's the valve stem seals. They harden with age then eventually break away. A bit of oil pools around the guide when the car is sitting, so you get a puff of oil smoke when you start it up. When you run it hard more oil si splashed near the valve guide and with no seal the engine sucks more past the guide. You can replace the seals without pulling the engine. Just make sure you run each piston up to TDC before removing the keepers and springs to replace the seals. That way if you drop a valve it doesn't go far and you ccan pull it back up. The 196 has domed pistons, you won't lose a valve. If you're concerned get about four feet of 1/4" nylon rope. With the piston down fish about half of it in the spark plug hole then run the piston up as far as it will go. You won't reach TDC before the rope compresses. Or use 2.5-3' of parachute cord if you have any left from your trip. 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
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