Send AMC-List mailing list submissions to amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx You can reach the person managing the list at amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of AMC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. overdrive (d stohler) 2. Re: T-14 Overdrive (Mark Price) 3. Re: Rear disc brakes (was: pulling an axle) (Sandwich Maker) 4. 2007 AMC Meets (Bill Strobel) 5. Power Steering (Don Johnson) 6. Re: T-96/T-14 OD swap (Andy) 7. Re: Rear disc brakes (was: pulling an axle) (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM) 8. Re: Fact (VAM Lerma) (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM) 9. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Jim Blair) 10. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Jim Blair) 11. Re: T-96/T-14 OD swap (Sandwich Maker) 12. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Sandwich Maker) 13. Re: Rear disc brakes (was: pulling an axle) (Tom Jennings) 14. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Tom Jennings) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 05:46:59 -0700 (PDT) From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [AMC-List] overdrive To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <20061026124659.51737.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 when i get home i can get measurements. i was going to put it in when i was home on leave, but from the front face, where it mounts to the bellhousing, to the back of the torqu tube mount, was 2" to long, and also the bolt patern on the front of the tranny to the bellhousing was about 1.5" wider than the t96 i have now. i didnt measure the input shaft length after i discovered it wouldnt work with the parts i have now. give me about another week and a half to 2 weeks, and i can get pics and measurements. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 7:30:03 -0700 From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] T-14 Overdrive To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <5012620.1161873003379.JavaMail.root@web11> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Thanks for pointing the need for the 3.31 or steeper axle with OD. You have to be carefull not to overdo, er, under gear the car! I run a 3.31 with T-5 and about a .8 overdrive right now. [255/60/15 tires] So figuring this ends up geared about the same as a 3.08 normal tired car that puts it at about a 2.46 final drive. It does real well with this combo. When I put the new T5 with .64 overdrive in I intend to move up to an S-10 two wheel drive, disc brake rear axle with 3.42 ratio. I think I may end up under egared though as this will end up at about 2.04 final in OD. Maybe it will work with torque of the EFI 4.0L, but now that I do the numbers I may have to look for a steeper geared axle. The two wheels drive S-10 axles measure in about 54 3/8" this is about 2" narrower then the stock American axle. I'll probably run spacers for the time being, but as I run a wheel with 4 1/4" switching to a 3 1/4" backspace wheel at a later date will likely happen as they are a standard aftermarket wheel at that offset. If anyone needs a 3.31 American axle, I should have two coming up for sale. The one in the car has a sslightly turned axle tube, but works fine, it is twingrip and complete. The spare is an open axle from a 199 auto car, had 43K on it it is open and will need brakes I assume as it has sat for a while now. -- Mark Price markprice242ATadelphia.net Morgantown, WV ---- Bob Hodson <rhodsonscrambler@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I have a 68 American that I converted from T-96 to T-14 with overdrive. > I did the > conversion back in 1980 and kept the 3.08 gears. I had to use the > linkage for the > T-96 and readjust the shifter. I had to modify the transmission support > and the mount was about an inch further back. I was not to impressed > with the mpg as when > there is a 30% reduction, the rear end equates out to a 2.16. With > 1-bbl, points and > bias belted tires the mileage was not what I expected. > Today, it is a different story. The 199 now as a 2-bbl carb, motorcraft > electronic > igination, radi tires and the rear end is now a 3.31. With a 30% > reduction, the rear > end equates out to a 2.32. What difference this made. I drove this 68 > White American > to the NAMDRA meet this past Sept and average 23 MGP driving around 65 > mph. > We just purchased a new 2006 Caravan and it gets 23mpg on the highway. > I think that > 23 mpg on a 68 199 with 172000 miles with not rebuilt is pretty damn > good. > > > > ============================================================= > Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist > > _______________________________________________ > AMC-List mailing list > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > or go to http://www.amc-list.com ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 10:46:41 -0400 (EDT) From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker) Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Rear disc brakes (was: pulling an axle) To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <200610261446.k9QEkfh24367@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> " From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx> " " A: I figured the stock XJ with rear disc brake cables would fit. when did the xj have rear disks? afaik only the zj, wj, and tj rubicon have had them. dunno about the liberty. " From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker) " " " From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx> " " " " A: I was looking at either a Grand Cherokee D35 ebrake and disc brake " " assembly (shoes inside the "drum" of the rotor) or 8.8" Ford axle with disc " " brakes (common XJ conversion) " " will the zj e-brake cables work on an xj with the zj disks? xj cables " won't without mickeymousing as the cable ends are different. " ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Andrew Hay the genius nature internet rambler is to see what all have seen adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 08:22:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Bill Strobel <theamcguy@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [AMC-List] 2007 AMC Meets To: List AMC <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <20061026152237.19232.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Starting to look at AMC Meets for 2007. AMO's meet in Denver is just too far for me. Looking for some regional meets on the East Coast. Any one have any info on next years meets? Thank you, Bill Strobel Independent Towing Fayetteville NC __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 11:43:45 -0400 From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [AMC-List] Power Steering To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <003001c6f915$85c61ae0$6400a8c0@DONS> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Some time ago, I added power steering to my 70 AMX, primarily, so my wife could park it. I got the pump, steering box and all the other parts and pieces from a 70 Javelin and the system works well, however, I've never been very happy with the "feel" of the steering. It seems over boosted, if that is the correct term. >From reading the list, I decided to change the pump, and bought a setup from a later model. This one has the smaller pump and supposedly, better road feel. Can someone send me a picture of the newer pump mounted on a V8? I would prefer the exploded view out of a newer manual. I can figure out the main mount, but there are some smaller pieces that came with the pump and I'm not sure where they mount. Great forum and thanks for any help you can give. Don ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 08:51:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: Andy <raysinvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] T-96/T-14 OD swap To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <28972096.1161877908997.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Bob, thanks for the info. Was the original T-96 a NON OD? All the info I've seen say that the T-96-OD is the same length as the T-14-OD. If so, what drive shaft did you use? How did you modify the tranny crossmember?Thanks for your help, I'm going to do this swap in the next year. Andy Ray 64 440H (2) 68 Javelin SST 343 4bbl > >Message: 7 >Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2006 21:59:07 -0400 >From: Bob Hodson <rhodsonscrambler@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: [AMC-List] T-14 Overdrive >To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Message-ID: > <ADVANCES62XCpU6q5ij00004c73@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain > >I have a 68 American that I converted from T-96 to T-14 with overdrive. >I did the >conversion back in 1980 and kept the 3.08 gears. I had to use the >linkage for the >T-96 and readjust the shifter. I had to modify the transmission support >and the mount was about an inch further back. I was not to impressed >with the mpg as when >there is a 30% reduction, the rear end equates out to a 2.16. With >1-bbl, points and >bias belted tires the mileage was not what I expected. >Today, it is a different story. The 199 now as a 2-bbl carb, motorcraft >electronic >igination, radi tires and the rear end is now a 3.31. With a 30% >reduction, the rear >end equates out to a 2.32. What difference this made. I drove this 68 >White American >to the NAMDRA meet this past Sept and average 23 MGP driving around 65 >mph. >We just purchased a new 2006 Caravan and it gets 23mpg on the highway. >I think that >23 mpg on a 68 199 with 172000 miles with not rebuilt is pretty damn >good. ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 10:21:55 -0500 From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Rear disc brakes (was: pulling an axle) To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A102A7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" "While searching for truckarm info I stumbled on clamp on rear caliper mounts! They wrap arouund the rear axle tube in two pieces and bolt together, then use waht appears to be a 3/8" bolt drilled to actually enter the axle tube to stop rotation. I'd addsome weld after finishing the install to be sure, but it sure looks like an easy setup to allow for aligning things before welding! Does anyone know what GM calipers I would look for to gain an ebrake??? and be not to god awfull expensive!" ------------------------ Make that a 3/8" FINE THREAD bolt, 1/2" long. That's what AMC used to hold the spring seats on the torque tube axle tubes. I had raised eyebrows when I first read "clamp on rear caliper mounts", but with one or two bolts in the tube it should work well. You need any GM rear caliper from a car that had rear disc brakes. Cadillac El Dorados and Sevilles (older ones) are a good source in the U-pick places, as they are often overlooked but use the same caliper as Camaros and Firebirds. As for "not expensive"... same caliper, same price for a rebuild. Since these calipers mount the same as fronts, you can use front calipers to get rear discs on the cheap. That leaves you with devising other means for a park brake. You can get pinion mount setups that use a small manual caliper. The same caliper is used on go-carts and such, and is two piece. It can be mounted to clamp on the main rotor (or use two) with a spacer made for the rotor thickness. That's what I intend to do -- eventually (maybe?). No inspection requiring an emergency or park brake, and I have an auto trans. Of course I know how to park with a manual too, only used a park brake with a manual when I wanted to leave it running in neutral. Park works fine for autos! I have a set of steel chocks I keep in the wagon just in case, but have only used them when changing a back tire on a hill. ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 10:57:31 -0500 From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Fact (VAM Lerma) To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A102D5@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" "Had AMC proffered it to us, Lerma would have been another LeBaron GTS: just another smart car that N. Americans were too dumb to want to own. *And if you know -all- your AMC history, you know why it was cancelled. How 'bout you tell us?" ---------------------------------- The Lerma was a "cut-n-paste" car made up in Mexico by VAM. They took a Concord body, cut it off at the back, and welded a cut off Spirit rear end to it. The execs there proud of their creation, and took one to Kenosha. Kenosha wasn't impressed. It would be to costly to do it the way the Mexicans did due to labor, and waste a lot of material. If done at the body plant, a new rear floor and quarters would have to be made since the Spirit components wouldn't fit unaltered. This would have required new dies. I'm certain VAM was altering the parts then assembling bodies, not cutting whole or partially assembled bodies. That would be to wasteful/costly for anyone, with the exception of a prototype or two. The Lerma was introduced in 1981, so had to be shown to AMC officials in early 1980 at best. I doubt AMC was interested in another variant of their 10 year old body -- they were pushing for something more up to date by dealing with Renault. ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 09:55:23 -0700 From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <BAY114-F11B18D315074959F2A0F93AC070@xxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed The vacuum advance would be your extra degrees for "total" From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610252124360.17006@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; FORMAT=flowed; charset=US-ASCII On Wed, 25 Oct 2006, Jim Blair wrote: >A: The Renix plug is TR5 in NGK and HO is TR5-5 (I wasn't paying attention >when I got mine because I looked up for '93 Grand Cherokee, which is the motor >now in my '84 J10 awaiting wiring to get done) Tomorrow I'll pull a plug to verify the heat range; I forget what I stuck in there. They're those !@## new-fangled baby plugs (1983). To recap, I've got a 20-degree mechanical advance unit, static timing set to 8 degrees, vacuum advance disconnected. Running high-test gas it does not ping. I measured 30 degrees total advance with my timing light, so measurement agrees with the sum of the components (2 degree error, probably in the markings on the timing light knob). With 36 - 38 recommended, 30 is a bit short for maximum advance, and this is on high test. I thought this engine was dead stock, but I suppose it could have high-comp pistons (oh woe is me). (I bought the shortblock from someone's abandoned Jeep project.) So where's that 6 degrees? I'm hoping spread between too-hot plugs, coolant temp lowering, richer jetting. _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 09:58:18 -0700 From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <BAY114-F86B62FA039F8973BFCD06AC070@xxxxxxx> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed PS: Don't forget AMC/Jeep changed the timing of the cam through the chain and gears. (maybe the crank gear was installed backwards for more advanced cam timing?) When I did the 3 keyway setup on my '66 Fairlane's 289, I tried the advanced spot and got great rubber burning with major ping and the power band died at 2,500 RPM! _________________________________________________________________ Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more?then map the best route! http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001 ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 13:09:40 -0400 (EDT) From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker) Subject: Re: [AMC-List] T-96/T-14 OD swap To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <200610261709.k9QH9ea25795@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> " From: Andy <raysinvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> " " Hi Bob, thanks for the info. Was the original T-96 a NON OD? All the " info I've seen say that the T-96-OD is the same length as the T-14-OD. " If so, what drive shaft did you use? How did you modify the tranny " crossmember? Thanks for your help, I'm going to do this swap in the " next year. some years ago i was offered a t14-o/d for $150. stupidly i passed on it... but the seller told me it's exactly the same length as my then t96, non-o/d. same output spline also, a direct swap he said. so it sounds like they're all the same length, except for the non-o/d t14 which is ~2" shorter. then, if you're putting a t14-o/d into a t14 car, you need the driveshaft from a t96 car - '67-9 199s, '66/early-'68 232s. and you could surely sell your present t14 and driveshaft to someone now running a t96. if they swap in a non-big-nut rear end, the combo would fit '64-6 american sixes too. ________________________________________________________________________ Andrew Hay the genius nature internet rambler is to see what all have seen adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 13:17:56 -0400 (EDT) From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker) Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <200610261717.k9QHHuQ25897@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> " From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx> " " " PS: Don't forget AMC/Jeep changed the timing of the cam through the chain " and gears. (maybe the crank gear was installed backwards for more advanced " cam timing?) When I did the 3 keyway setup on my '66 Fairlane's 289, I tried " the advanced spot and got great rubber burning with major ping and the power " band died at 2,500 RPM! advancing and retarding the cam are standard racer ways of moving the powerband down or up the rpm range, and likewise an indicator of whether you'd run better with a smaller or larger cam. i recall hearing that when they were active in scca showroom stock, the amc racers retarded the late '70s 2bbl cam 13*. ________________________________________________________________________ Andrew Hay the genius nature internet rambler is to see what all have seen adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 10:38:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Rear disc brakes (was: pulling an axle) To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610261032190.17006@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Thu, 26 Oct 2006, Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM wrote: > Make that a 3/8" FINE THREAD bolt, 1/2" long. That's what AMC used to > hold the spring seats on the torque tube axle tubes. I had raised > eyebrows when I first read "clamp on rear caliper mounts", but with one > or two bolts in the tube it should work well. The 3/8" bolt holding the spring seat to the axle tube, on torque-tube cars, is under ZERO force; axle rotation is stopped by the torque tube and the wishbones. All of the force is vertical (spring), the bolt just locates it fore/aft. But on the clamp-on disk brake setup Mark points out, the brakes are trying to rotate that bracket on the axle tube; that's a lot of force. I think the clamp on system is brilliant though, it lets you get everything perfectly aligned, adjusted, tested, before welding on. A bolt as pin, into the axle tube, probably works, but seems long-term scary to me. Suspension parts get soaked in water and crud, take a lot of forces, and are largely ignored. ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 14:59:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610261451140.17006@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Thu, 26 Oct 2006, Jim Blair wrote: > The vacuum advance would be your extra degrees for "total" Well, yes and no, from what I can tell. Concerning only wide-open-throttle, first: I know I'm not racing, though WOT simulates it a bit; zero vacuum, timing is static+mechanical. I believe under this circumstance I should be able to run 36 - 38 degrees total advance (for the six). Racing, where a lot of time is spent at WOT, there's often no vacuum advance unit, economy isn't a concern. Back to the actual highway -- at cruise on the flat and level, vacuum is relatively high, therefore the mixture is rarefied, which burns somewhat like "lean", more advance -- over the maximum WOT value -- is recommended for economy, because the rarefied charge burns slower and needs more ignition lead time. At least this is what I've figured out by reading (sometimes, actual books :-) But assuming you are right, it means the cruising vacuum -- whatever it would be, depending on engine size, cruise speed, axle and tire, altitude, etc -- should create the right amount of advance, in my particular case 6 - 8 degrees advance. I can make a chart of advance vs. in hg with my vacuum gauge, in the car. I will do that this weekend. ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ AMC-List mailing list AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 9, Issue 67 ***************************************