Re: [AMC-List] torqu tube Q???

[Peter Marano <PMarano@xxxxxxxxx>]

Slightly usefull information: The hub is a steel forging, and it may not 
have a keyway.  My 1960 Ambassador did not  The keyway was added to help 
durring the reinstalation of the hub.

Personal experience: Every spun hub that I have seen was a hub that 
someone had removed and failed to reinstall correctly and/or had seen 
service in a Rebel at the drag stip.  I have toqued axle shaft nuts to 
600 ft lbs without the nut or threaded portion of the axle failing.  (A 
grade 5 7/8 thread can take 300ft lbs.)

Peter Marano
Kenosha WI
 

>Message: 1
>Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 00:59:54 +0000
>From: farna@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [AMC-List] torqu tube Q???
>To: johnnykazek@xxxxxxxxxxx, amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
>Message-ID:
>	<092320060059.8200.45148709000C58C30000200821603759640E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
>	
>
>You're not bugging us, that's what we're here for -- answering questions and helping AMC/Rambler people!!
>
>The hub is cast steel, but not hardened. It has no splines in it (a new one doesn't), but has a keyway. The axle is hardened steel with shallow splines. When a new hub is installed the axle "digs into" the smooth inside of the hub and creates shallow splines in the hub. The end of the axle is tapered and the hole in the hub tapered ot match. If the hub is ever removed it must go back in the same position on the same axle, that's why the keyway. The key really doesn't keep the hub from spinning, those fine splines and the torque of the nut on the end do. 
>
>There is not re-torque interval for the axle nut, but it should be loosened then torqued back down every 10-15 years. It should be torqued at 250-300 lb/ft. The TSM states 250, but 300 will be fine. More than 300 won't help, and may hurt if a lot more due to added stress on the end of the axle. I take the car to a big truck, construction equipment, or farm tractor shop with the hubcaps or wheel centers off so they can see the nut. It's no big deal for them to loosen it a bit then tighten back up. Most small auto shops can't reliably torque over 200 lb/ft -- a 3/4" drive torque wrench is really needed. Most front wheel drive axles have a nut holding the hub on that should be torqued to around 200 lb/ft, and 200-250 is the limit for 1/2" torque wrenches. Torque isn't very accurate at the beginning and end of a wrench's range. 
>
>The nut probably worked loose with age or the end of the axle stretched a bit (which would in effect loosen the nut) over the years. It's a 60, "only" 46 years old!! You can't use the old hub, it won't tighten back on the axle. Finding a new hub is going to be difficult and may be expensive if you do. You best bet is to get the axle and hub from a parts car. The hub has to come off to get the brake backing plate off and change the seal. I usually pull the axles and take them to a machine shop so they can press the hubs off. Tightening the nuts as much as you can is fine for the initial drive to the truck shop, just take it a bit easy. Your machine shop might be able to tighten the nuts to 250 lb/ft though. If they work on heavy equipment as well as cars they likely can. You may as well change the outer axle bearings and seals while you have the hub off, and may as well do the other side as well. The hub has to come off for those procedures anyway. 
>
>The axle/hub from any 58-62 Rambler Six or Classic six cylinder should work. V-8 models used a heavier rear axle assembly (Model 20 in V-8, yours is a Model 15 axle). Or you can change the entire axle assembly out if you can find one locally. 
>
>--
>Frank Swygert
>Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
>Magazine (AMC)
>For all AMC enthusiasts
>http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
>(free download available!)
>
>
>  
>



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