AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 54
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 54
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 16:19:06 +0000
Send AMC-List mailing list submissions to
amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
You can reach the person managing the list at
amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of AMC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Delay's Delay's Delay's (Mr. AMC)
2. Re: Delay's Delay's Delay's (Mark Price)
3. Re: AM radio computer MP3 player... (Mark Price)
4. Re: Proportioning Valve (Mark Price)
5. How I identified a bad radiator and choice for replacement in
my 70 AMX road racer (hal.lynch@xxxxxxx)
6. Re: Proportioning Valve (Jim Blair)
7. Re: Engine Timing (Jim Blair)
8. How I identified a bad radiator and choice for replacement in
my 70 AMX road racer (hal.lynch@xxxxxxx)
9. Re: backfire through carb (Jim Blair)
10. Re: How I identified a bad radiator and choice for
replacement in my 70 AMX road racer (Tom Jennings)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 08:01:28 -0400
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: [AMC-List] Delay's Delay's Delay's
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx, amc_club_of_socal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, MacsOrphanCarGroup@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <23991-44A11E18-1787@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Between the rain and my friends shop jamed with work and the missing
thermostat in the fan installation kit, work has come almost to a dead
halt. I found a guy that is retired that works out of his garage to
remove the front bumper to finish installing the last 2 bolts in the fan
and tranny cooler brackets. The draw back is he only works from 3 pm
till 9 pm. I have to be home from 3 to 6 as I am waiting for the FedX
delivery of my thermostat. The rain is keeping me from installing the
tinted American Motors letters on the windshield. I checked them out
yesterday and realized that 4 out of the last letters I cut last week
needed to be done over. I didn't realize that half way through the 5
hours it took me to cut them by hand with an exacto knife I had become
fatigued and 4 of the last finished letters when closely checked were
unacceptable. So I cut new ones to replace those yesterday. I did how
ever manage to find a dome light lenses in my stash of parts to replace
the missing one. It was out of a 83 Spirit I parted out 7 years ago and
no quite the same style as a 74 Hornet but it fits. The silver painted
edge was all messed up so I soaked it over knight in Castrol Super Clean
to remove the paint and masked it up and painted it with the silver and
clear I had left from the grill job, baked it over night in my
dehydrator and now it is in the car. Weather permitting I will try to
start installing the letters on the windshield today. Rain and showers
and thunder storms are forecast through the 4'th of July weekend.
DAMN!!!!! after all this time I'd just like to get the !@#$%^ grill in
at least.
"Doc"
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 6:02:00 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Delay's Delay's Delay's
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: "Mr. AMC" <AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<21394450.1151413320918.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I'll trade you, My grass hasn't been mowed in going on two weeks. The lawntractor is blowing oil out the crankcase gasket. I finally got it torn down to repair last night, but I have to work the next three nights.
Saturday, my 15 year old on a learners permit wrecked the 98 Altima. Not too bad, but he busted the headlight and turn signal mountings off the housings and tore the bumper cover and creased the fender. Lucky he hit a parked work truck bumper at the 4H camp so no pay out to the other vehicle!
Last night while I worked on the tractor I made him start taking the lights out so I could JB weld the mounting tabs back on. Well, while I was in the other garage gathering some tools for my project he took the mounting bolt for the A/C high pressure line loose from the condensor! Now I have to replace the O-ring and recharge the A/C in the only vehicle we had that the A/C worked really well!
Needless to say, It has not been a good last few days.
So now I'm going to go look into picking up a set of gauges so I can work on my 134A A/C systems in the spare time I don't have. The 15 year old refuses to show remorse for any of this! I know he does, I can see it, but we can't get a peep of apology out of him and a forced one is not exactly the same. I know where he is at. I remember being 15, but I just want to knock him up the side of his head! My next evening off is Friday and I am hoping that I can get some prgress made then. It is forecast to rain for days, ug.
Saturday I'm hoping to take the day and go over to Gaithersburg, Md for the AMCRC show. seems pointless right now, though. I haven't been able to lay hands on the convertible in months. The next two months really suck, work wise. Anyone want to buy a 15 year old and get a free convertible and lawn tractor? :]
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- "Mr. AMC" <AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Between the rain and my friends shop jamed with work and the missing
> thermostat in the fan installation kit, work has come almost to a dead
> halt. I found a guy that is retired that works out of his garage to
> remove the front bumper to finish installing the last 2 bolts in the fan
> and tranny cooler brackets. The draw back is he only works from 3 pm
> till 9 pm. I have to be home from 3 to 6 as I am waiting for the FedX
> delivery of my thermostat. The rain is keeping me from installing the
> tinted American Motors letters on the windshield. I checked them out
> yesterday and realized that 4 out of the last letters I cut last week
> needed to be done over. I didn't realize that half way through the 5
> hours it took me to cut them by hand with an exacto knife I had become
> fatigued and 4 of the last finished letters when closely checked were
> unacceptable. So I cut new ones to replace those yesterday. I did how
> ever manage to find a dome light lenses in my stash of parts to replace
> the missing one. It was out of a 83 Spirit I parted out 7 years ago and
> no quite the same style as a 74 Hornet but it fits. The silver painted
> edge was all messed up so I soaked it over knight in Castrol Super Clean
> to remove the paint and masked it up and painted it with the silver and
> clear I had left from the grill job, baked it over night in my
> dehydrator and now it is in the car. Weather permitting I will try to
> start installing the letters on the windshield today. Rain and showers
> and thunder storms are forecast through the 4'th of July weekend.
> DAMN!!!!! after all this time I'd just like to get the !@#$%^ grill in
> at least.
> "Doc"
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 6:08:32 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] AM radio computer MP3 player...
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<5256025.1151413712210.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Us old guys with high frequency hearing loss don't notice much if you record at the highest resolution [or whatever they call it!]. I personally don't have the patience to do more than burn some mix CDs from windows media! My kids have their desktops jammed with stuff and MP3 players, one has an IPOD. It's all status symbol crap. But kinda neat in it's own way. My Sony head unit in the American has an IPOD input, never tried to use it. The Cd changer in the Cherokee has MP3 disc capability times 12 discs, never tried to do it either! Just to d@mn#d! old and grouchy!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Too bad MP3 is such low-fidelity music...
>
> http://www.bbesound.com/technologies/BBE_MP/
>
> Ken
>
> Quoting Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>:
>
> > Almost every DIN chasis out there above $100 has inputs as well as outputs
> > now.
> > Sony even makes a player with memory built in the head unit. You plug it into
> > you computer with a USB cabl;e download your music and carry it back out to
> > your car. Your all set, no IPOD to plug in No FM transistor. I think it's a
> > 1GB memory IIRC. I was considering one for my truck when I Ebayed the 4 disc
> > AM/FM unit for Less than $80. So I used my Rambler mentality and said fooey
> > on it! 4 discs of burnt disc music is enough to keep me from getting bored!
> > The FM stations around these parts SUCK!
> > --
> > Mark Price
> > markprice242ATadelphia.net
> > Morgantown, WV
> >
> >
> > ---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > > " From: "Kim Bueler" <kimbueler@xxxxxxxxx>
> > > "
> > > "
> > > " If I had known this a year ago, I wouldn't have spent over $800 to have a
> >
> > > " top of the line AM/FM MP3 player with remote installed in my car - sure
> > the
> > > " car looks stock since I left the original AM radio installed and just
> > placed
> > > " the remoter sender in an unobtrusive place in the dash and had the radio
> >
> > > " installed in the back of the car but geez for under $400 you can get an
> > IPOD
> > > " with an FM transmitter and use it anywhere.
> > >
> > > high end cars are now coming with ipod holsters and jacks. i'd
> > > imagine there are aftermkt din-chassis radios set up for ipod input...
> > > ________________________________________________________________________
> > > Andrew Hay the genius nature
> > > internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> > > adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AMC-List mailing list
> > > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> > >
> > > or go to http://www.amc-list.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AMC-List mailing list
> > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> >
> > or go to http://www.amc-list.com
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 6:11:09 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Proportioning Valve
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: "Mr. AMC" <AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<21646154.1151413869141.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
That is absolutely the best way to get a true match for brake balance.
If your really into cost savings you could grab one out of a Comanche pickup with the lever and rig a thumbscrew set up to move the lever and make your own adjustable valve. Not that it's worth all that effort. They don't cost that much to buy new.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- "Mr. AMC" <AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Jim forget the auto parts stores and get a Jeggs catalog and order a
> Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and plum it into the line going
> to the rear brakes. I used on on my Hornet disc brake conversion and set
> it in the middle of the adjustment range and never had to touch it. That
> was 2 years ago.
> "Doc"
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 14:50:59 +0000
From: hal.lynch@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] How I identified a bad radiator and choice for
replacement in my 70 AMX road racer
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<062720061450.21329.44A145D300020920000053512160375964080C029704D2040E08@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Hi guys,
I am going through an interesting issue with my 70 AMX road racer and thought I'd share the experience so far and request any input before I proceed.
Back in 1999 I removed my Allison NASCAR engine to refresh and store in favor of a mild 401 that I had built by Ron Waters at WSC. The engine is a copy of his very successful road race engines. I tpped his extensive r oad race knowledge to build a second 'mule'motor for my car that I will use for street use, driver training and chassis setup for the AMX. It basically has been blueprinted, balanced, ported and plumbed for dry sump oiling. Outside of that it uses all the same accessories of my NASCAR engine.
Once I installed this engine in my car back in late 2003 I immediately had a problem with water temperature creep, where the water temp would just keep rising as it idled. I shut it down once it reached 210 and scratched my head.. How could a brand new engine running proven accessories that supported a NASCAR engine and never ran hot ata all now fail me?
Long story short, I found pretty quickly saw that the ratiator was not getting hot, removed it hand sure enough it was plugged. Now this was a custom 7 core radiator built in 1985 by now defunct Webster Radiator in NY . It was made on 7 cores of 3/8 tube in cross flow pattern and litterally didn't have 500 miles on it as I primarily showed the car off a trailer.
I had the radiator 'rodded' to clean it out and merrily proceeded to reinstall it. Fast forward through a move to Northern IL I never proceeded with the further testing till this spring. Pull the car offf the jacks this spring and start it up to test the cooling system and same thing happens, but much very slowly. The engine can idle fine but as soon as I add any heat by driving it or reving it it can't disapate the heat generated. This time, however, the radiator was seemingly getting hot. Take the radiator out again and over to a shop and have it flow tested. Told it was fine and reinstalled. Start the ccar and it still has water temp creep. I decided to enlist a second pair of eyes and have a race engine builder watch the car warm up with me and a friend of his was watching and recommended using an infared heat gun to measure the engine and rediator temp as she warms up. As dwe do we see that the engine warms up fine with no apparent hot spots. The top few inch!
es of t
he radiator are engine temp but as you test the lower rows of the radiator the temp drops radically. (i.e top inlet 170 degrees and bottom of the radiator 100 degrees). We believe that only a few rows of this monster radiator are working and that the tiny 3/8 tubing may have accelerated its clogging. I learned that today radiator technology has changed dramatically from the eighties. New radiators use 1 inch to one and a half inch tubing to cool with fewer rows.
So I'm tossing this radiator TFO (the f--- out) and looking to purchase a new aluminum radiator. So far my best choice is an aluminum Griffin radiator using NASCAR standard size of 27.5 long and 15.5 high, Ford style inlets and outlets. Three rows 1.25 inch tubing rated for up to 600 hp. Priced at $270.
So, does anyone have any input on the size and shape of a aluminum radiator for a 70 AMX or other AMX radiator support of this size? Hope the radiator technology issue of core tubing size is of value to everyone running around with a older radiator.
Hal
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 07:53:34 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Proportioning Valve
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F347A90CA32F1664E64859AC7E0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: Summit sells an adjustable one. I haven't found one at NAPA yet (I was
looking for one for my Comanche since I bypassed the %$#@&* load sensor
valve that gives you next to no brakes in MJs)
From: "Jim Boone" <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Proportioning Valve
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY116-F114528E08F8A39C3A519E7AC7E0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I'm trying to get started on changing over my Rebel to disc
brakes from
drum. I have a complete front brake setup that I've had for yrs
- all
well-worn, but all there. I had forgot what it came from, but
from doing
some investigation, and comparing pictures of the calipers on
www.advanceautoparts.com, it looks to be the later ones that
were used on
Eagles, some Jeeps, '82-3 Concords and Spirits.
I was gonna test fit everything together on the car, then
exchange the
calipers and rotors for new/rebuilt. What I can't find is the
proper
proportioning valve for this setup. Advance Auto has no
listing. I'd think
that any disc brake car remote mounted valve would work.
Anyone have ideas on where to find one? I haven't explored the
Napa site
yet, or Autozone for that matter, but thought I'd throw that out
there.
I'll probably keep it as manual disc for now, just want it
valved right;
will sure be better than the front drum setup I have on it now.
Thanks,
Jim Boone
Mims, FL
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar ? get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 07:58:04 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Engine Timing
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F16209B6EFE16FEE619687BAC7E0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: Since losing a large portion of my hearing (from the car that fell on me
in the '95 Duvall, WA quake) I have had to resort to vacuum gauge on
occaision to get things dialled in. My mentor worked for Henry Ford on the
assembly line as a mechanic building Model As.
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: [AMC-List] Engine Timing
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <23990-44A11366-4247@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Don the vacuum gauge method is new to me but I can see how it
would
work. While it probably would not work on the modern tech cars
of today
I don't see why it would not work on cars of the 70's. My method
of
timing under a load needs a fine hand and a good ear as does my
way of
adjusting a carb needs a good ear. But then again I been doing
it for
over 40 years. Both methods were taught to me by my father who
served
his mechanic's apprenticeship in Germany before getting out with
his
father who also was a mechanic in 1932 before Hitler took over.
On new
cars I haven't a clue. That's why I have 2 74 Hornet's and my
newest car
a 77 Chevy beater.
"Doc"
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:01:19 +0000
From: hal.lynch@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] How I identified a bad radiator and choice for
replacement in my 70 AMX road racer
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<062720061501.1620.44A1483E000E6AB2000006542160375964080C029704D2040E08@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Hi guys,
I am going through an interesting issue with my 70 AMX road racer and thought I'd share the experience so far and request any input before I proceed.
Back in 1999 I removed my Allison NASCAR engine to refresh and store in favor of a mild 401 that I had built by Ron Waters at WSC. The engine is a copy of his very successful road race engines. I copied his extensive road race knowledge to build a second 'mule' motor for my car that I will use for street use, driver training and chassis setup for the AMX. It basically has been blueprinted, balanced, ported and plumbed for dry sump oiling. Outside of that it uses all the same accessories of my NASCAR engine.
Once I installed this engine in my car back in late 2003 I immediately had a problem with water temperature creep, where the water temp would just keep rising as it idled. I shut it down once it reached 210 and scratched my head.. How could a brand new engine running proven accessories that supported a NASCAR engine and never ran hot at all now fail me?
Long story short, I found pretty quickly saw that the radiator was not getting hot, removed it hand sure enough it was plugged. Now this was a custom 7 core radiator built in 1985 by now defunct Webster Radiator in NY . It was made on 7 cores of 3/8 tube in cross flow pattern and literally didn't have 500 miles on it as I primarily showed the car off a trailer.
I had the radiator 'rodded' to clean it out and merrily proceeded to reinstall it. Fast forward through a move to Northern IL I never proceeded with the further testing till this spring. Pull the car off the jacks this spring and start it up to test the cooling system and same thing happens, but much very slowly. The engine can idle fine but as soon as I add any heat by driving it or reving it it can't dissapate the heat generated. This time, however, the radiator was seemingly getting hot. Take the radiator out again and over to a shop and have it flow tested. Told it was fine and reinstalled. Start the car and it still has water temp creep. I decided to enlist a second pair of eyes and have a race engine builder watch the car warm up with me and a friend of his was watching and recommended using an infrared heat gun to measure the engine and radiator temp as she warms up. As dwe do we see that the engine warms up fi ne with no apparent hot spots. The top few inc!
hes of
the radiator are engine temp but as you test the lower rows of the radiator the temp drops radically. (i.e top inlet 170 degrees and bottom of the radiator 100 degrees). We believe that only a few rows of this monster radiator are working and that the tiny 3/8 tubing may have accelerated its clogging. I learned that today radiator technology has changed dramatically from the eighties. New radiators use 1 inch to one and a half inch tubing to cool with fewer rows.
So I'm tossing this radiator TFO (the f--- out) and looking to purchase a new aluminum radiator. So far my best choice is an aluminum Griffin radiator using NASCAR standard size of 27.5 long and 15.5 high, Ford style inlets and outlets. Three rows 1.25 inch tubing rated for up to 600 hp. Priced at $270.
So, does anyone have any input on the size and shape of a aluminum radiator for a 70 AMX or other AMX radiator support of this size? Hope the radiator technology issue of core tubing size is of value to everyone running around with a older radiator.
Hal
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 08:21:16 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] backfire through carb
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F20E1EEEDD57CCF79CD79EAC7E0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: If you are running a Carter BBD with feedback carb, the timing will self
adjust as long as the knock sensor functions unless it's had the Nutter
Bypass done.
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] backfire through carb
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1151307945.28671.64.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Timing.
Retarded.
Me I mean.
On the road trip to Santa Fe last week I'd retarded it on the
side-of-the-road "a few degrees" to deal with the crap gas I was
buying.
A "few" turned out to be 10. Can't beat actual measurement!
Didn't
pinging though, uhuh.
The 87-93 Clymer's Jeep 258 book I have, says the carburetted
motor
wants 9 - 11 btdc static timing. I never bothered to look in the
newer
books before [but wanted to double-check the new-fangled timing
mark
setup], I assumed (ahem) it would be the same as older models
(usually 4
- 6btdc). Wrong again.
I set it to 8btdc. I'll find out tomorrow on the drive to Irvine
(45 mi.
each way). I hope I'm not wrong a third time.
-
_________________________________________________________________
Don?t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 09:19:08 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] How I identified a bad radiator and choice for
replacement in my 70 AMX road racer
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1151425148.17562.89.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Wow, you're outa my league tech-knowledge-wise! But the temp creeped
even at idle? It doesn't seem like it would take much radiator to suck
the heat out of an idling engine, especially an aluminum one.
If the top is 170, and the bottom 100, it's removing LOT of heat!
On Tue, 2006-06-27 at 14:50 +0000, hal.lynch@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I am going through an interesting issue with my 70 AMX road racer and thought I'd share the experience so far and request any input before I proceed.
>
> Back in 1999 I removed my Allison NASCAR engine to refresh and store in favor of a mild 401 that I had built by Ron Waters at WSC. The engine is a copy of his very successful road race engines. I tpped his extensive r oad race knowledge to build a second 'mule'motor for my car that I will use for street use, driver training and chassis setup for the AMX. It basically has been blueprinted, balanced, ported and plumbed for dry sump oiling. Outside of that it uses all the same accessories of my NASCAR engine.
>
> Once I installed this engine in my car back in late 2003 I immediately had a problem with water temperature creep, where the water temp would just keep rising as it idled. I shut it down once it reached 210 and scratched my head.. How could a brand new engine running proven accessories that supported a NASCAR engine and never ran hot ata all now fail me?
>
> Long story short, I found pretty quickly saw that the ratiator was not getting hot, removed it hand sure enough it was plugged. Now this was a custom 7 core radiator built in 1985 by now defunct Webster Radiator in NY . It was made on 7 cores of 3/8 tube in cross flow pattern and litterally didn't have 500 miles on it as I primarily showed the car off a trailer.
>
> I had the radiator 'rodded' to clean it out and merrily proceeded to reinstall it. Fast forward through a move to Northern IL I never proceeded with the further testing till this spring. Pull the car offf the jacks this spring and start it up to test the cooling system and same thing happens, but much very slowly. The engine can idle fine but as soon as I add any heat by driving it or reving it it can't disapate the heat generated. This time, however, the radiator was seemingly getting hot. Take the radiator out again and over to a shop and have it flow tested. Told it was fine and reinstalled. Start the ccar and it still has water temp creep. I decided to enlist a second pair of eyes and have a race engine builder watch the car warm up with me and a friend of his was watching and recommended using an infared heat gun to measure the engine and rediator temp as she warms up. As dwe do we see that the engine warms up fine with no apparent hot spots. The top few inc
hes of t
> he radiator are engine temp but as you test the lower rows of the radiator the temp drops radically. (i.e top inlet 170 degrees and bottom of the radiator 100 degrees). We believe that only a few rows of this monster radiator are working and that the tiny 3/8 tubing may have accelerated its clogging. I learned that today radiator technology has changed dramatically from the eighties. New radiators use 1 inch to one and a half inch tubing to cool with fewer rows.
>
> So I'm tossing this radiator TFO (the f--- out) and looking to purchase a new aluminum radiator. So far my best choice is an aluminum Griffin radiator using NASCAR standard size of 27.5 long and 15.5 high, Ford style inlets and outlets. Three rows 1.25 inch tubing rated for up to 600 hp. Priced at $270.
>
> So, does anyone have any input on the size and shape of a aluminum radiator for a 70 AMX or other AMX radiator support of this size? Hope the radiator technology issue of core tubing size is of value to everyone running around with a older radiator.
>
> Hal
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 54
***************************************
Back to the Home of the AMC Gremlin