IIRC, the FelPro set also includes a gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifolds, so you have to remove the four studs and separate the manifolds to install it. > >I use the two-piece sets, and have had no problems with long-term leaks, >loosening, etc. To do the job right means you have to loosen the four >bolts (studs) that bolt the intake to the exhaust manifolds. Of course >on old engines they like to break, especially the top ones near the >center exhaust ports. > >The sandwiched perf metal one goes on the head, I think smoothest side >to the block, perfs out. It will (barely) stay on the locating dowels as >you assemble. The blue one goes on top (towards manifold). It ought to >be marked, but I'm fairly sure it's symmetrical. The loop in the middle >of the blue intake gasket goes up. I had one once that needed to be >clipped slightly to not be pinched by the manifold against the block. > >The reason for loosening the two manifold halves is of course that the >intake gasket (two gaskets) is thicker than the exhaust (one gasket). >Just snug (inch/lbs by hand) the manifolds up to the block (the gaskets >will want to slip down as you assemble them) before re-tightenin the >manifold halfs. > >I always recheck torque after getting it hot for a day or so, but it >seems to be a waste of tim ewith these new gaskets. > -- Glen Hoag '75 Pacer 258 (x3) hoag@xxxxxx '76 Pacer 258 (for parts) Limestone County, Alabama '77 Pacer 258 (for kids) '80 Pacer 258 DL wagon '81 Concord DL 258 AMO #7895 AMCPC #471 '82 Spirit 151 _______________________________________________ AMC-List mailing list AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list or go to http://www.amc-list.com