Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips)

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Let's not even THINK about a rack on a narrow 58-63 American! It was a lot of trouble on my 63 Classic, and I doubt I'd do it again. The little American is so narrow that it would require a lot more work and a special "hot rod" rack made for 30's cars. That's why the steering arms curl out over the drums on the little Americans from the factory -- the width and wheelbase require it for correct placement of the outer tie rod ends for proper steering geometry (Ackerman angle). Only 15" or larger wheels will fit because of this. A rack would require shorter arms which can't be used because the outer tie rod ends would need to be where the brake backing plate or rotor is. well, you might be able to use a 1/2" spacer between the spindle and steering knuckle to gain clearance, but that could change the steering geometry in other ways. Hmmm... a Concord pitman and idler arm will introduce some issues also. Hopefully the original arm will fit a steering box. I got my original 63 Cla!
 ssic ar
m to fit, but it required a shim.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> If the pitman doesn't work out I'd investigate a rack before massively reworking 
> the steering linkage. If the pitman arm is the same length, you should be able 
> to work around different size tapers with adapter shim or having the cenetrlink 
> reamed out to match the Pitman. Be carefull if you do this that the pitman is 
> the same length as your idler. Things get strange real quick if the don't match! 
> Lots of toe change going around corners! You don't want that! I have a 67 
> American linkage stil together in a pile in my shed if measurements from it are 
> needed. Not for sale though! It's off a 43,000 mile car and is mine for future 
> use!-
> Mark Price
> markprice242ATadelphia.net
> Morgantown, WV
> 
> 
> ---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> > Easy one first -- the original shift rods had a washer on each side of the 
> grommet and a cotter pin holding the rods in. I use a "hairpin" instead because 
> it's easier to install and remove. 
> > 
> > Now for the PS. There is just enough room to fit a modern steering box. I used 
> one on a 63 Classic, but have owned enough of the 61-63 Americans to be very 
> familiar with them. At least one of the lower holes on the modern Saginaw box 
> will align with one of the original steering box holes. The others will have to 
> be drilled. In my Classic the uppermost mounting hole on the box was just above 
> the "frame" rail. I used a piece of 1/2" conduit as a spacer and drilled the 
> hole just above the rail in the inner fender wall. The original steering shaft 
> will have to the cut from the original steering box and a piece welded to the 
> end for mounting a "rag joint". If you get a collapsing shaft from a late 80s GM 
> rear drive car (GP, Monte Carlo, Regal) the shaft can be cut and weled with at 
> least 2" of the collapsible tube used for adjusting the length. I'd do this 
> BEFORE the new holes for the steering box are made. The box needs to be mounted 
> at the right angle for the shaft.
> > 
> > Mounting the box is the easy part. I'm not sure if the pitman arm from the 
> original box will fit the shaft of the new power box. If it does you're all set 
> (I don't think it does, but you might be able to adapt it). If not, you'll have 
> to modify a Concord (et. al.) drag link and change the inner tie rod ends and 
> idler arm to the newer style. That will entail cutting the Concord drag link and 
> welding. If you can find a piece of tubing with an inner diameter the same as 
> the outer of the drag link short pieces can be used as sleeves, making the 
> cutting and welding pretty simple. It's not a bad idea to replace the drag link 
> anyway. That old spring buffered link makes for very vague steering! I always 
> tightened mine down as much as I could just short of causing it to bind and even 
> used washers as shims in one. The springs get pretty weak over time. 
> > 
> > --
> > Frank Swygert
> > Publisher, "American Independent 
> > Magazine" (AIM)
> > For all AMC enthusiasts
> > http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
> > (free download available!)
> > 
> > original message ------------------------------------
> > 
> > From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [AMC-List] Two Requests
> > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > 
> > First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
> > (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
> >  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
> > install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
> > box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
> > came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
> > What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
> > so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
> > local mechanic to make the switch.
> > 
> > Second, I am trying to put a 64 classic 660 back on
> > the road.  It has manual transmission with overdrive
> > and column shifter.  I replaced the steering column
> > and shifter today, because the old one had been
> > vandalized and was not connected to the shift levers. 
> > Does anyone have the clips that fasten the shift rods
> > into the column grommets?  Do you know what these are
> > supposed to look like?  I can check local hardware
> > sources for something that will work, but I would like
> > the factory correct parts.
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > Joe Fulton
> > Salinas, CA
> > _______________________________________________
> > AMC-List mailing list
> > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> > 
> > or go to http://www.amc-list.com
> 


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