Re: [AMC-List] 62 rambler classic

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

I don't think the factory panhard rod is supposed to be parallel at all. 
 From what I recall from my former 66 Rebel, the rod had short ends that 
were close to parallel at ride height and the bar connected those two 
sections at a fairly steep angle. I'd check the bushings in the rod, 
transmission, and motor mounts to make sure they're there. Also, the truss 
rods may be damaged (one was rusted out in my Rebel) and if those are gone, 
you'll have all sorts of monkey motion back there.

Based on my previous experience with ladder bars, you do not want to use 
them in a street car. They really are designed for situations where body 
roll is not desired (like drag racing) and you'll probably have problems 
with tires lifting off the ground if you take corners fast. There are "pro 
street" type bars with polyurethane bushing instead of rod ends but they're 
still designed not to allow body roll. Also, 36" ladder bars require floor 
surgery. I put 32 inch bars in my Rebel and they just fit.

Like Frank said, the factory shock mounts will not take the abuse of a coil 
over. You can buy a weld in universal coil over mount that will provide you 
with a strong mount. One issue you may run into with using factory springs 
is that the rear axle isn't centered in the wheel opening. If you decide to 
center the axle in the opening, the spring seats will not line up anymore.

There are a few other options for rear suspension:
- Jaguar or Corvette IRS
- Back half the car
- Leaf springs (this is likely to be the easiest way to convert to an open 
drive line).
- Watts link (this is a wishbone shaped link for the top and you use two 
parallel lower links).
- Find a V8 drive train (axle, torque tube, transmission) and swap bell 
housings on the transmission. Torque tubes are actually quite strong and 
the only real problem with them is parts are a little difficult to find.

If you're really feeling ambitions, you can contact a company like S&W Race 
Cars and have them fab up a complete frame with the front and rear 
suspension and motor mounts you want. I'm not sure how much different there 
is between 58-62 and 63-66 cars but I had considered this for my Rebel and 
they said it wasn't a problem for my Rebel.

Matt

At 02:07 PM 4/15/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>The Panhard bar should be near parallel to the axle when the car is 
>loaded. It will be slightly higher on the body end when the car has a 
>light load. but not much. ALL panhard rods will move the car slightly from 
>side to side with suspension movement, but less than 1" left and right 
>through the full suspension travel. If you can FEEL the movement you have 
>other problems -- loose mounts, worn bushings in the ends, worn shocks, 
>and/or worn springs.
>
>Early 60s Ramblers were still sprung rather softly due to road conditions 
>back then -- still few Interstates. You will need new springs about 15-20% 
>stiffer than stock to attain a modern car ride -- front and rear. You will 
>find this to be MUCH cheaper and easier to install than coil over shocks. 
>Go to www.coilsprings.com and they will make new springs at the desired 
>rate. The new ones will be progressive rate springs also -- they get 
>stiffer as they compress. This provides MUCH improved handling and ride.
>
>The stock shock locations aren't strong enough for coil over shocks. They 
>are also "bayonet" (stud) ends on top. All coil overs I've seen are "eye" 
>end. It would be easy enough to make a steel bracket for the shock end and 
>bolt it where the bracing in the body IS strong enough -- in the coil 
>spring pocket. You would really need to do the same for the front. Make a 
>bracket that sits in the upper spring pocket. On the Classic the spring 
>mount is straight above the spring on top of a screw off tube -- it's a 
>very different trunnion than the American/Javelin. Rather than modify the 
>original I'd get a piece of thin wall tubing the right size and have 
>threaded to match. Then make a bracket for the shock on hte upper end of 
>the tubing.
>
>To mount a four or five speed you will have to go to an open driveshaft. 
>This will require either a ladder bar or four link setup. Ladder bars are 
>easiest, but the four link will ride a little better.
>
>What I think is a better solution is "truck arms". These are basically 
>long ladder bars angled in toward the driveshaft. Check this out at 
>http://www.hotrodstohell.net/truckarm/truckarm_index.htm. Take a look at 
>the "G-Body" kit. This  is closest to what I'd do with a 58-66 big 
>Rambler. It keeps the springs in the stock location (you'll need the 
>stiffer rear springs). The spring seats can be removed from the original 
>axle and bolted to any other axle with a fine thread 3/8" bolt in the 
>tube, just like stock. I did this when using ladder bars on a 63 Classic. 
>My bars were to short (24"), and caused it to bounce a lot on rough roads. 
>I wouldn't use less than a 36" ladder bar now, and the longer the better. 
>You can make your own bars and mount them to the trans crossmember, but 
>you'll have to make solid mounts to replace the rubber crossmember mounts. 
>Worn out rubbr crossmemebr mounts will also greatly affect your ride now. 
>Galvin's (www.ramblerparts.com) has repro rubber mount!
>  s. With
>  the torque tube they are needed, it's easy to fab a solid mount if 
> you're changing to another rear suspension type. While your on the truck 
> arms site, look at the "Shoebox" page. That gives a much niver view of 
> how the system is installed. Most of the kits mount the springs forward 
> on the arms, not desireable with the early Ramblers though. Also check 
> out www.hotrodders.com/forum/home-made-truck-arm-suspension-27086-2.html. 
> This is where someone installed the arms from an actual early 60s Chevy 
> truck in their car.
>
>Yes, there is a lot of frame width difference between the American and 
>Classic! It doesn't look like it, but the rails on the American are only 
>40" apart on the inside and the Classic rails are just over 47" apart. A 
>later big car axle is only a couple inches wider than the Classic axle and 
>has the four link setup. You can remove the four link from a later big car 
>and mount it in the Classic with a little work. If you have a model 20 
>(Classic V-8) now, you can even narrow the axle housing to fit the axles 
>out of the 62 Model 20 housing.
>
>--
>Frank Swygert
>Publisher, "American Independent
>Magazine" (AIM)
>For all AMC enthusiasts
>http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
>(free download available!)
>
>original message ------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:55:44 -0700 (PDT)
>From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [AMC-List] 62 rambler classic
>
>i have a 62 rambler classic custom 2 door. it is in stock condition now
>with rebuilt 196 and 3 spd manual. has the coil rear suspensin. my
>panhard bar is not paralell with the axle like it should be so it throws
>the rear end from side to side when over 40 mph. i am looking at getting
>a triangulated 4 link. i am wanting to go with a coil over shock
>package front and rear. does anyone know if the stock shock locations are
>strong enough on these bodied cars to suport a coil over set up? also, if
>any one has read the newest car craft, they built their 67 american
>exactly as i want my 62 classic. can anyone tell me if there is alot of
>difference in the fraim width from the 67 american and a 62 classic? i
>want either a 304 or a 360 in it and a 4 spd manual. any help would be
>great. i want to dive into it when i get back from iraq in a few months.
>thank you for any  help.
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mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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