I'm the one that posted the how to on changing the pressure on the GM
style pumps.
I've gone through about three computers since then and don't have copy of
the right up. Ayone with a copy of Ralph's archive CD can dig it up. My
copy is at home and I'm not sure if I posted the writeup before or after
the CD I have was burned. I need to get a new one. If nayone saved it feel
free to post it.
In a nut shell, The pressure is controlled by the valve located under
the high pressure seat. You take the valve out by removing the hose, then
the large nut from the resevervoir, under it is a spring and the valve,
pull them out. Look at the valve, on one end is a nut with a screen in the
end. Take the nut off, which can be tricky, you can't damage and machined
surfaces or distort the valve shape. Add small washers to the one that
will allready usually be in place to decrease pressure, remove washers to
increase pressure.
If your going from a V-8 pump to a six and you have both pumps, just take
the valve from one pump and put it in the other.
The new GM based, Jeep pumps have the same valve, Wranglers run less
pressure then a XJ. I use an Wrangler valve in my XJ pump on the American.
Same goes for some of the Camaros and Fords. If they steer to easy you can
find a valve from a sports car and swap it in to drop presure and add a
touch of road feel.
Now there is an assembly in the steering box that has a lot to do with
this too. The pump tuning trick can cause low assist at idle. When I had a
stack of washers in the valve in my original American pump it was nice on
the raod, but had almost zero assist at idle when parking, had to give it
a little gas if assist was wanted, no big deal with a stick.
One of the Power steering companies, Borgeson, flaming river or such has
a kit that incldes a tool to allow you to clamp the P/S valve in a vice
and remove the nut. it includes washers to use for fine tuning. I always
just used stolen washers from another valve. All the Saginaw/ GM pumps
seem to use the same valve. Be it round or rectangular reservoir, pressed
or keyed pulley.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060314211842.028d7230@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 22:09:45 -0500
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 67 American power steering conversion?
You can use a box from a V8 car with a six cylinder pump but not the other
way around since V8 pumps put out about 50% more pressure than a six
cylinder pump (also, a V8 pump from 64-74 will not physically bolt up to
the brackets). Personally, I wouldn't use a bone yard pump or box unless
you rebuild them. The sill adapter plate, brackets, crank pulley (unless
you already have A/C), and rag joint (just the metal part, you should
replace the rubber part before you use it) are the only bone yard parts
you
really need. Everything else can be purchased new or rebuilt. The pump is
easy enough to rebuild but if the reservoir is damaged, it's cheaper to
buy
a rebuilt pump than a new reservoir or have yours fixed by a body shop.
Rebuilt steering boxes are about $150 and pumps run around $60 (may be
less
but I don't feel like digging for receipts). Also, you can buy aftermarket
boxes and pumps from companies such as AGR that can tailor them to your
needs (more or less boost, quicker ratio, etc...). Saginaw steering
systems
were used on AMC, (I think) Chrysler, Ford, and GM at one time or another
so there are lots of options.
A few other things about the pumps:
- V8 pumps are totally different than six cylinder pumps until at least
sometime in the mid 70's so you can't use one on a six cylinder car.
- There were bracketry changes over the years. I think 67 to 68 saw a
change but there may be others as well. As long as you take pictures of it
before disassembly and get all the pieces, you shouldn't have any problems
with the differences.
- There are variations in the angle of the nipple for the return hose so
you need to make sure that you use a reservoir that's designed for the
right side of the engine so you don't run into problems hooking up the
hoses. The nipple is either soldered or brazed to the reservoir so you
could change it but with as inexpensive and easy to get as the right part
is, it's not likely to be worth the trouble unless you're bored.
- Sometime around 1970 or 1971, the shape of the reservoir changed from a
round thing with a filler neck to a teardrop-ish shape. The pumps are the
same so this is just a cosmetic difference.
- Around the same time, they also changed from a bolt on to press fit
pulley. You need to get the right pump for the pulley. To the best of my
knowledge, that's the only change that was made to the pump that can ruin
your day.
- There were pressure variations over the years but as long as you use a
pump and steering box designed for each other, you will not have any
problems. The pump pressure is also something that can be changed easily.
I've never messed with it but I know instructions have been posted here
before. It would be great if someone went to http://www.amycyclopedia.org
and posted them in the Repair/Technical section as well.
Matt
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