That's not right Bill, you can remove the valve. It's behind the valve seat.
1. Find a screw that will fit the hole in the center of the small hole in the valve seat after you remove the hose. Screw it in 2-3 threads at least. The screw should protrude out enough to grab it with a pair of pliers or better yet a claw hammer.
2. Pull the seat out with pliers or hammer.
3. A piece of black plastic/rubber should come out along with a spring. You might have to lightly tap the brake pedal to pop it out, but most will come right out.
4. Put the seat back in, tap the screw with a hammer to seat it good, then remove screw and put line back in.
As long as the bore is the same in the master cylinder it can be used for drum or disc brakes. The stroke is the same. The only reason the front disc reservoir is bigger is to idiot proof the system. There's enough fluid in there to keep the brakes working even if you never check the fluid.
On June 4, 2005 Bill Strobel wrote:
> Larry. If you added disc brakes to your car but did > not change the master then that is the problem. Drum > brake systems use a 10 lb residual valve in the master > to keep the shoes nearer the drum. If you swapped for > discs up front then the master is slightly holding > pressure out on the pads hence the dragging. In a > disc setup the cut seal at the piston maintains enough > outward pressure to keep the pads near the disc. You > can not just remove the residual valve as it is > machined into the master, you need to get the correct > disc/drum master for your application. Check the TSM > circuit for the master and you should see the residual > valve. Hope this helps,
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