Re: Suggestions on keeping bleeder screws from seizing up

[<mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I don't have a clue! The guy that did the exhaust on the car turned me on to it. I tried it and it worked!
Mark Price
mprice@xxxxxxxxxx
Morgantown, WV
69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed 
65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase
01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date:  Wed,  9 Mar 2005 17:46:47 -0700

>One wonders at the thought processes that led to that discovery. :)
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>Ken Ames
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>Quoting mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx:
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>> Out of antisieze? Liquid Maalox works great!
>> I used to use it on my collector bolts. Cheap and easy to come by!
>> Mark Price
>> mprice@xxxxxxxxxx
>> Morgantown, WV
>> 69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed 
>> 65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase
>> 01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>> From: "Gary Walker" <NashFlash@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Date:  Sat, 5 Mar 2005 22:41:17 -0600
>> 
>> >    Sometimes someone breaks one and blames it on them being seized.   To 
>> >help get them loose without breaking them, we need to try to apply the 
>> >torque in a circle instead of pulling to one side.   To accomplish this, 
>> >use a little 1/4 inch  T handle as a Craftsman or Snap on with a short 
>> >extension and a 1/4 inch  X  1/4 drive  6 point socket.   Only use a six 
>> >point socket.   When you apply the counterclockwise pressure evenly with the
>> 
>> >T  handle,  they will come loose.   If this is a car which has sat for like
>> 
>> >20 years, then apply some "Knock 'er Loose" and bump the end lightly several
>> 
>> >times over the course of a day or two if it does not let go after first 
>> >using the  T  handle with light pressure.   I have not broken one yet, and I
>> 
>> >have done many OLD ones.
>> >    When you reinstall,  you can put some anti seize compound ON THE THREADS
>> 
>> >only and that will not get in the fluid.  It will be outside of the sealing
>> 
>> >surface of the bleeder.  It only takes a very tiny amount on the threads of
>> 
>> >any bolt to take effect.   If you do use an anti seize compound, you might 
>> >consider nickel instead of copper for longevity in this case.
>> >            Your AMC Friend,
>> >             Gary Walker,     Owner of some old AMC stuff
>> >
>> >----- Original Message ----- 
>> >From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
>> >To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> >Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 5:04 PM
>> >Subject: Suggestions on keeping bleeder screws from seizing up
>> >
>> >
>> >> I'm this close (imagine me holding my index finger and thumb close 
>> >> together) from fixing the brakes on the 67 American wagon I picked up just
>> 
>> >> before Christmas and I want to avoid a problem I've had with my 68 
>> >> American - frozen bleeder screws. The big problem with them (from what I 
>> >> was told when the last one broke when the master cylinder was being 
>> >> changed out) is that the screws are only 1/4" so any stubbornness at all 
>> >> just about guarantees that they'll snap off. Any suggestions on what I can
>> 
>> >> do to them to reduce the likely hood of them seizing on me? I've though of
>> 
>> >> plain on anti-seize compound but I'm not sure how well that reacts with 
>> >> brake fluid.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >>
>> >> Matt
>> >>
>> >> mhaas@xxxxxxx
>> >> Cincinnati, OH
>> >> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
>> >> 1966 Rambler Rebel
>> >> 1967 Rambler American wagon
>> >> 1968 Rambler American sedan
>> >> ===============================================================
>> >> According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by
>> >> UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
>> >> not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.
>> >>
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