Re: mail Digest for 4 Feb 2005 in hour 16:00

[farna@xxxxxxx]

The FSJ axle is probably a little wide for the 63-66 big car. The XJ Cherokee/Comanche axle is about 3" wider, but can be used with deeper offset wheels. 3-3/4" offset 7" wheels just fit, but 4"-5" would be better. 3-3/4" is common enough, the others aren't. Toyota continued using the 5 on 4.5" bolt circle with front drivers, but they are too deep -- closer to 6", but if you find 5" I think they would work. Stock wheels are 3" backset 6" wheels. Some FSJ axle diffs were shifted 2-3" to one side -- I think when a Dana transfer case was used, but I'm not sure which years. 

I used single arms on the first rear suspension conversion with an FSJ axle and 7" 3-3/4" backset American Rally wheels. I had just enough clearance on the outer edge of the rear wheels wells -- closest side had only 1/4" clearance from the bulge in the sidewall. It rode a bit "choppy" because I used short 26" long arms. I boxed lower four link arms from a full size Chevy and used them. I did this to get the large rubber bushings used. I made brackets for the axle that kept it from twisting but allowed a little flex, nuch better than a rigid mount. Phil Amin in TN has a 62 Classic with a 401 and uses regular solid mount ladder bars. But the bars are longer, I believe 36". The longer the better! Handling is just fine -- rear doesn't need a roll bar. Even with the l;onger bars ride would be a little harsh or choppy (like a short wheelbase Jeep) on rough roads, but is just fine on good roads. Mine bounced a good bit driving along I-10 between the Mississippi boarder and New Orl!
 eans, a particularly bad section of Interstate, but most others were fine.

There's a better way that's not much harder than standard ladder bars. It's called "truck arm" suspension by at least one company (search for that phrase). Ever saw the rear suspension of an early 60s GM pickup? It has tow large I-beam arms angling toward the end of the tranny with pivots on each side of the driveshaft. The axle ends are rigidly mounted, the pivot ends have rubber bushings. That's why this torque arm suspension is called "truck arms", and is what I'll use if I ever convert another (if I build my stretch limo). Use 1-1/2" square or round 11 gauge (1/8" sidewall) tubing, or 1"x2" square (1-1/2"x2" would work also). Square would be easier to fabricate, round a bit stronger. Weld a plate on the axle end to bolt onto the leaf spring seat of the replacement axle. You'll need to fab a shock mont also, or take the mount off the original axle (what I did). The pivots can use an additional custom crossmember up front (similar to an aftermarket four link CM) or be weld!
 ed to the trans crossmember. If you weld to the trans CM take the rubber mounts between CM and body off and make a solid mount or replace them with new -- either way works. I'd use some kind of rubber bushing in the pivot end -- the pivot bushings for four link bars or front A-arms (stock or aftermarket) would work fine. 

This type suspension is pretty flexible because of the inward pointing angle and length of the bars. It also doesn't allow any type of srong wind-up or pinion rising, and doesn't take up to much room under the car. It's especially suited to the 63-66 Classic/Ambo because it almost follows the space needed by the strut rods. Use a custom CM and the bars can be at up to a 45 degree angle, though 60-65 degrees would be better.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
			

 -------------- Original message ----------------------

> Date: Fri,  4 Feb 2005 08:55:52 -0500
> From: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: AMC axles
> 
> Anyone know how wide the rear axle is under a late 80's Limited FSJ Wagon is?
> I can get one for free and am thinking it would work well under the 65 
> Ambassador with my turbo 400. I know I'll need to drill the axles and drums to 5 
> bolt , but that should be no big deal. On the same note anyone have any thought 
> son how bad a suspension action I would get with a set of ladder bars to locate 
> it? I can get a set of the Chevelle type bolt on bars cheap [I'd probably weld 
> them to the housing] I know this would not be as ideal as a four link, but how 
> bad would it really be? Frank S. you used single arms on your first wagon. How 
> bad did it ride and handle?

>