Re: Window rubber

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Jim,

For the rear window gasket, they are not being reproduced right now but 
there are a couple of options. The first is try to find an NOS one. 
Blaser's specializes in NOS parts. The second is to modify the hard top 
gaskets to fit. Third is to have someone like Steele Rubber make you a new 
one. I have no idea how expensive that is but since the gasket is fairly 
simple (at least to my untrained eyes), it may not be too bad. I just sent 
an inquiry to them and I'll report back what I find out. You should also be 
aware that there are at least two different sedan rear window gaskets. I 
have a 1967 and 1968 parts book and it lists one for base models and one 
for 440's. I think the difference is that the 440 gasket has a slit for 
trim in it. I don't know if there are two gaskets for 1969 or not.

For the floors, you can use the replacement front pans for Javelins and 
AMX's. They require a little tweaking around the transmission tunnel and 
the ribbing in the toe board is a little different but they work pretty 
well. At the bottom of 
http://www.mattsoldcars.com/gallery/68american.shtml, you can see a picture 
of the ribbing.

As far as rusting goes, that's a common problem on Americans. There are two 
primary causes for that. The most common is leaks around the windshield 
gasket from the clips that hold the reveal moulding in place. The TSM has 
very specific installation instructions that must be followed to get a leak 
free seal. The second most common reason for leaks is that the drains for 
the cowl vent get plugged up with leaves and other small debris. To keep 
this from happening, it's a good idea to remove the kick panels and clean 
out behind them periodically. The drains are actually pretty small (about 
the size of a quarter) compared to the size of some of the stuff that can 
get in them. Mine were plugged solid when I got the car.

Here's some other things that can cause leaks:
- Rusted pinch welds
- Bad door and window weather stripping (especially around the vent windows)
- If it's just the passenger side and you park at a steep angle with the 
passenger side lower than the driver's side, water can run into the heater 
box during heavy rains.

On the last item, it doesn't sound like it would be a really common problem 
but AMC issued a service bulletin on it. The two fixes mentioned were to 
either park the car so the passenger side wasn't lower than the driver's 
side or to install a small metal strip on the driver's side of the opening 
to the heater box so water couldn't run over the lip. The used cowl I 
bought a few years ago appears to have had this modification made to it.

Matt

At 12:50 PM 1/9/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> I've got my 390 American apart for a full restomod.  I'm not getting too 
> crazy with it, just fixing and cleaning up everything and adding AC with 
> original parts I've been scrounging for a couple of yrs now.
>
> I can find most things I need at various vendors, but there are a couple 
> of things I'd like to see what some of you think.
>
> My car is a '69 Rambler (American - the name was dropped after the '68 
> model yr) base 2 dr sedan.  I cannot seem to find the rear window 
> rubber.  You can find the hardtop rubber, but not the sedan.  Ideas?  I 
> haven't removed it yet and will reuse the original if need be, but it's 35 
> yr old rubber, I'd rather not even tho it's in pretty good shape.
>
> It's also getting a full repaint after taking it down to the shell (I'm 
> close to that now).  I'd also like to replace the driver's side floorpan, 
> or the entire floorpan if need be.  On this I see having 3 options:
> >find a clean original pan, no luck yet on that
> >have a custom set made, not sure who'd do that or what the cost would be
> >see if an aftermarkt set for something like a Falcon, Nova, or early 
> Mustang would fit.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Overall the body is in good shape with very little rust.  The driver's 
> floorpan must've been the result of rainwater sitting over the yrs.  It's 
> an original Orlando, FL car (I have the records).  It was originally gold, 
> repainted green before I got it, and I'm thinking black inside and out 
> with some grey or silver highlights.
>
> It's already set up with a '70 390 that I'm not going to do too much to 
> other than clean up, add the AC stuff (with a Sanden compressor), Tranny 
> is a SVO T5 I put in shortly after buying the car, and the rear is an AMC 
> 20, currently with 3.15's, but I'm going to put the original 3.54's back 
> in it along with a rebuild.
>
> Interior will be black.  I'm thinking of a low-key rollbar set up, maybe 4 
> point, and remove the rear seat with two buckets up front. It will be 
> sound insulated thoroughly and carpeted.
>
> Thinking of the AC, I also need a 3 groove, 3 bolt lower pully.  Have one 
> of those laying around?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Boone
> Mims, FL
>
> =============================================================
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mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1966 Rambler Rebel
1968 Rambler American sedan
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