On Fri, 8 Oct 2004 XWINGZ2@xxxxxxx wrote: > I need some advice and instruction. The manual does not go into great > detail on how to set the end play for the rear axles. I can put both my axles in > and bolt them down and they still move in and out quite a bit. How do I go > about taking this space out and getting the correct clearance. The book says > they are looking for . 06. However they also do not give you instructions if the > shims have been removed from the previous axles and you are starting over > having to shim new ones. Lessee if I can help you ruin your axles in short order... :-) I assume you have new or good bearings, etc all ready to go. First install the passenger side axle, it gets NO shims (check TSM for which side, pretty sure it's U.S. passenger side). Then install the drivers side with whatever shims were in there when you took it out. If none, erm, stick in what you've got. Bolt it up snug. Go bonk the passenger axle in with a 2x4 wood cushion and 4lb hammer. (tap < bonk < slam) Then do the same to the drivers side. This sets all the end play onto the drivers side shaft. Now you can measure the end play with a dial gauge. I mag-clamped to the backing plate somehow (long ago) and pulled hard and pushed hard on the axle. If you don't have enough shim, then you won't have any end play, and that's Bad. If you have no idea how much you need to shim it at first, use use 3/8" plain washers, instead of shims; bolt it up and measure the end play. Then you can calculate the shim thickness, if you want .060" of end play (I have no idea what the spec is without a TSM) and the dial gauge reads .085", then the washers are .025" too thick, so measure the washers subtract .025" and start with that. When you're just changing bearings the same shims are usually correct. The shims aren't any big deal, get shim stock from a real parts store and stout snips (electrical shears are easiest to use for the thin stuff) and cut to fit, you could use the outer seal for a guide.